The original Duffle coat "the monty" worn by Sir Montgomery.
What better time to look back at such a classic staple than on a cold, gloomy January morning? The duffle coat has, for a longtime, held a fascination for me. It's part paddington bear, part indie boy and looks wonderfully warm.
Burberry has reinvented it, Gloverall has kept it alive and every high street store has a version.
The duffle coat first came into existence in the 19th century. It got it's name from a town called
Duffel in Belgium which produced heavy, coarse wool (black) and passed it namesake onto the coat. However, it's interesting to note that the fabric from this region wasnt actually used for the Duffle coats we know! The British Navy demanded that all fabric to be used had to be domestic (British made) and so a thick, double faced, boiled wool was used instead. It had a twill texture on the outside and was originally made in camel.
Photo aboard HMS Iron Duke in November 1919.
Credit for the photo to Brian Wollaston and www.maritimequest.com-
Source - Gloverall website
The first designs of the Duffle Coat were thanks to John Partridge and due to it's hard wearing construction and fabric
the British Royal Navy adopted the coat. In the image above you can clearly see in the original design. Similar to the pea coat in length, with a very generous fit and dropped shoulder. It also had three toggles as opposed to it's later adaption with four.
During WW2 the duffle was commissioned by the Navy. This version saw slight adjustments in the details. The length was increased, the width narrowed and shoulders reinforced. The image above shows an original Naval duffle from WW2 (made in 1944). It was worn by many including Field Marshall Montgomery (see first image).
Gloverall Original Monty (women's version) inspired by the original WW2 Duffle.
After the war the military released the surplus coats to the public resulting in students, artists and general public getting a chance to wear the Duffle coat. Suddenly the Duffle reached it's popularity peak. Even cartoons featured the coat, with Paddington Bear being created in 1958 wearing a blue duffle coat.At this time, a brand called Gloverall bought the now unwanted fabric and coats for the Navy and sold them. They re-designed the Duffle at a later date with a newly improved fabric (Loden) and a variety of styles.
The duffle coat is now seeing a bit of a revival. Alexa Chung and other celebrities are often see in this coat and character Oliver has a magnificent one in the 2010 movie Submarine.
Alexa Chung in a fashion version of the Duffle coat.
Movie Still from the film Submarine. 2010
Personally, I would love to get my hands on an original WW1 or WW2 duffle. I know they would be absolutely massive but from a fashion history perspective, it would be fascinating!
If you are looking to purchase a duffle it seems as though the closest to the original is Gloverall. What is particularly great about his brand is that they are part of it's later history. It is a shame that the fabric they use is no longer British but they seem to really hit the nail on the head with the design.
Other Websites with Duffle History:
